Sutherland

Scotland > Highland Counties > Sutherland

With only Caithness further to the north, this is one of the most northerly of Scotland's mainland counties. To the south lies Ross & Cromarty with which Sutherland shares the characteristic of traversing the country from North Sea to the Minch.

Although being one of the largest counties in Scotland, it is sparsely populated with only the coastal fringes supporting most of the residents.

The clearances of the 18th and 19th centuries have been well documented with Sutherland probably being most widely known - the Earl of Stafford and the Duke of Sutherland are titles that are not held in high regard by the Scots, Highlanders in particular. Many of the glens of Sutherland were cleared with the people "persuaded" to move to the coastal areas. Many of the fishing ports of Sutherlands east and west coasts were populated by these crofters, many of whom could not even swim. Towns and villages like Golspie, Brora, Helmsdale, Berriedale, Dunbeath, Latheron and Lybster used to have thriving fishing communities, alas, however, now very much diminished.

Helmsdale even had its own gold rush with many prospectors scouring the River Helmsdale and Strath Ullie for their fortunes. There is gold there, but in very small quantities and before trying your hand, make sure you have the right permissions!

This beautiful eastern seaboard is quite fertile and farms are numerous, no more so than around Dornoch with its championship golf course, the favourite of many a professional golfer. A typical example of a pure Scottish links course, windswept and undulating!

The interior of the county is very mountainous and barren but barrenness to one person is beauty to another and beautiful it truly is if you like mountains, lochs and rivers. You can spent weeks exploring the glens of the county looking for remnants of the old pre-clearance crofting communities. Many overseas visitors do just that - the Sutherland Diaspora must be huge.

The west coast of Sutherland starts where the Wester Ross coast finishes - just as spectacular but with many more unique (a word not used lightly) mountains with "special" names. These include Canisp, Quinag, Foinaven, Suilven, Coigach, Glasven and many more.

Lochinver is still an important fishing village as is Kinlochbervie further up the coast. Between them are a number of small villages and crofting communities such as Stoer and Clashnessie, Drumbeg, Unapool with the Kylesku Bridge, Scourie and Rhiconich.


Fishing for trout, salmon and sea trout used to be a highly important source of income up here but for various reasons (predation, over fishing in the sea and fish farming pollution) this has declined but, hopefully, not for long. Places like Inchnadamph, Altnacealgach, Overscaig, Altnaharra were popular fishing destinations.

Sutherland also has a north coast, overlooking the Pentland Firth. The most northerly point on the UK mainland is at Cape Wrath. Take care here as this area is used by the Ministry of Defence for target practice so be sure that the way is clear before setting off towards Cape Wrath.

Nearby, Durness, a frequent haunt of a young John Lennon, can keep you interested for some time, exploring the village, beaches, caves or just fishing. Loch Eriboll is where the German Fleet was surrendered at the end of the First World War.

This north coast is very "fjord" -like with only the main A838 to follow unless you want to take risks on unregistered roads through the straths. A bus came off one of these roads in 2003 so be warned!

The Kyle of Tongue is the next "fjord" leading to Tongue with its hotel. From Bettyhill, you have a choice of venturing south through the interior of the county via Strath Naver or carrying on along the northern coast road to Melvich where you can again choose to turn south through the beautiful Strath Halladale and down the River Helmsdale to the east coast.

To many visitors go as far as Ullapool and turn south east to Inverness, The north west and north coast of Sutherland takes you to a different world.